These worm-like many-legged segmented creatures are from the class “Diplopoda,” named after how each segment has 2 pairs of legs. Their hard exoskeleton protects the soft tissue inside.

Fun Facts:

• They’re more closely related to crustaceans than insects. They are not in the insect class, they are in a subphylum of arthropod, Myriapoda.  

• Millipedes have many ocelli in their ocular field. Meaning they have almost-compound eyes like some insects and cannot see well, but perceive changes in light/temperature/humidity with various sensory organs like their antenna.

• Flatbacks, more precisely members of polydesmid, have no eyes whatsoever

• They breathe through little holes by their legs called spiracles.

Defense:

Primarily, if startled or scared, a millipede will curl up into itself, protecting its head.

When threatened, some millipedes will excrete chemical compounds or toxins that can smell bad and cause skin irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. If in contact, avoid touching eyes, nose, mouth.

• note that some species, like the yellow and black flat or cherry millipede, secrete cyanide compounds. I’ve been told it smells nutty like almonds.

If a millipede secretes oil/liquid when handling, that means it is scared and handling should cease unless absolutely necessary (mite cleaning, emergency tank removal, etc.)

Behaviors:

What does a millipede do?

• Climb

• Burrow

• Explore

• Sleep

• Groom

• Eat

• Reproduce

• Hang with other millipedes 

Diet:

• Millipedes are detritivores meaning they eat decaying organic matter. 

This includes:

• Decaying hardwood leaves

• Rotting hardwood (mycelium indicates rot, look for wood that falls apart easily)

• Living plant matter (mosses, lichens, grasses, ferns, vegetables, etc)

• Other decomposing organisms (Mold, bacteria, fungus)

That means substrate is super important as it is the millipede’s main diet. Supplemental feeding of vegetables/fruits/etc should be infrequent, maybe once a week. Protein should be offered more often, like twice a week.

Sexing:

Pc: https://insektenliebe.com/en/sex-determination-of-millipedes/.

Millipedes can be sexed visually in two ways:

• a enlarged segment near the head called the saddle

• The 7th pair of legs

Note that flatbacks can typically only be sexed by the leg method/gonopod inspection as they don’t have a saddle segment.

Females:

• Lack large saddle

• Have all sets of legs (random missing legs can be common though, I’m talking specifically about the 7th pair)

Males:

• Usually have a larger saddle

• Missing the 7th pair of legs

• Have “gonopods” that transfer sperm (at 7th segment)

Breeding:

pc: https://insektenliebe.com/en/sex-determination-of-millipedes/ 

You will know your millipedes are breeding when they are spotted cuddling, heads usually face to face. Other mating behaviours include antenna tapping along the body, swaying side to side, and rhythmic leg movement.

These critters lay clutches of eggs which are usually not very distinguishable from their poop (depending on species). The number of eggs varies depending on breed but it’s sensible to expect the offspring to be in the double to triple digits. Smaller species typically reproduce and grow much faster than larger ones so reproduction rates can vary.  After 1 year my Polydesmus Angustus colony is on generation 3 while my narceus americanus colony is still mostly gen 1 with 1” babies.

Millipedes will lay eggs in a variety of ways:

• In a nest/chamber

• In mud/poop

• In a cluster

• In crevices

• Buried

Baby millipedes:

Eggs can take weeks to hatch, once hatched the baby millipede only has a few segments but will grow with each molt. It can take from 1-5 years to reach maturity depending on species.

Molting:

Molting is the process in which a millipede sheds its exoskeleton and typically adds a segment to its body, becoming longer, or grows in size/diameter.

• A millipede will molt 10+ times in its life (Some species molt annually). These stages are called “instars.”

• Molting will happen more often as juveniles and become less frequent as adults

• Molting usually occurs when a millipede is burrowed. For this reason it is recommended to NEVER dig up a millipede as they are very sensitive and likely to be injured at this stage

• Sometimes surface molting occurs, this can be fine but may indicate the substrate is not suitable.

• A molting millipede may look differently than it usually does, typically lighter in color or swollen in size

Molting chambers:

Some species make chambers to help them safely molt. These can be made of:

• Mud

• Silk

• Poop

Ailments:

Millipedes are fragile and can easily get sick/die from a variety of things. Keep chemicals, artificial smells (perfumes, candles, oil diffusers), and smoke away from the tank.

This is a pic I took of a chamber my flatback Valek and her mud chamber

If your millipede suffers from one of these ailments, unfortunately there is not much you as an owner can do except leave the millipede alone. Do not handle, disturb, or stress it during this time. Some areas have exotic vets than can help millipedes but this is very very rare, almost unheard of in the US.

Common health issues:  

• Drying out

• Falling

• Molting injury

• Dying from stress (usually from shipping)

• Leg rot

• Mites

• Parasites

Drying out (or desiccation) is a serious consideration when caring for a millipede. Most millipedes (like ivories, bumblebees, North American giants, Smokey oaks) need their humidity to be around 70-80% because of this. If they experience low humidity and moisture for too long they will dry out and perish.

Falling can cause serious damage if from a height over 1’ or on a hard surface like rock. It is recommended to always handle millipedes close to a soft surface, never while standing over the floor. Try to keep rocks/hard objects away from enclosure edges.

Molting injuries can occur occasionally and can appear as dark spots on the exoskeleton. This could be due to disturbance during their molt as they’re extra sensitive during this time.  This is why some species create molting chambers. This is also why digging in the substrate is NEVER recommended.

Leg rot is a bacterial infection caused by excess moisture. Symptoms look like missing legs with black dots on the stump.

Death:

Death typically happens slowly. You may see your millipede on the surface in a J or C shape. You may even see the legs and antenna still moving, maybe a bit slower. It’ll take a while but if these signs are present the millipede will most likely pass within the next day(s).

If the unfortunate but inevitable happens you may be unsure what to do. Consider the options:

• Bag and freeze (place millipede in a container and freeze them for 72 hours. I believed this was the most humane and painless way to cull but crushing and immediate death are better)

• Crush. This is a brutal method but the most effective. A crushed body will die instantly with no suffering. It must be done precisely and entirely. Disposal should be carried out carefully in the trashcan. I don’t like putting them in the trash because it feels disrespectful but introducing nonnative/captive animals to your environment is more disrespectful.

• Leave it be (you just can’t be sure if it truly is the end for your baby, so leaving it be may make sense for you. If you see springtails or other cleanup crew crowding the millipede, it has passed. If you want you can leave the body for them to cleanup)

• Pinning/taxidermy is also possible but millipedes can be difficult to preserve.

NEVER dispose of a dead millipede by burying it outside. There are many reasons not to do this:

• Non native species should never be introduced to the wild, even if passed

• Captive millipedes (native or not) could carry diseases/parasites/illnesses that could spread to the wild population

Please for the safety of the natural environment dispose of all tank items (substrate, dead millipedes, etc) in a sealed container in the trash. I know that’s sad, I hate doing it but it’s just necessary. As pet owners it’s crucial that we all take great care to keep our pets separate from our nature.

Mites:

Mites are common, some are bad, some are beneficial. They are often found around the head and rear end of the millipede or down by the legs.

Giant African millipedes, for example, have been studied to have symbiotic relationships with a certain type of mite (it’s actually these mites and their possible negative impact on the environment that this breed is so expensive in the US). The millipede provides a mobile home and food, the mite cleans the millipede. These can’t really be identified without a microscope but it’s said that mites that move are typically harmless while stationary ones may be predatory.

On mites:

https://www.publish.csiro.au/is/IS09036

There are many kinds of mites: soil, grain, clover, spider, etc.

• I most commonly have Stratiolaelaps Scimitus, these guys compete with springtails and eat fungus gnat larvae so they can be a give and take. I’ve actually read in some terrarium guides to purposefully add these dudes.

If you spot a high number of mites on the millipede there may be an issue. Millipedes can get stressed out from too much contact with them. Symptoms look like squirming, curling quickly, sporadic movements.

Try:

• taking a paintbrush and gently wiping the mites off (if they come off easily then they’re probably normal ok mites, their population is just out of control)

• Lowering humidity

• Removing mite infested plants/moss

• Completely redoing the enclosure

If the problem gets really bad and is obviously bothering the tank inhabitants, then a substrate change may be necessary.

Fungus gnats and fruit flies

These little guys can be a real nuisance. They fly everywhere, laying eggs that lead to little white worms crawling up the walls. If you’ve ever kept potted plants, you know them well.

Both types of flies will thrive in a warm and moist tank and can sneak in through substrate so it is expected that they will pop up, though fungus gnats are more common. Most tanks go through a boom of gnats before balancing out, though extra steps may be necessary to remove them all.

Fungus gnats are small black flying insects. They live in damp soil, feed on organic matter, and reproduce quickly.

Fruit flies are larger flies, their larvae look similar to fungus gnat larvae but lack a distinct black head. These flies prefer fruit/veggies to lay eggs on. If you see fruit flies in the tank, cease any supplemental feeding of this kind.

Steps to remove flies:

Please note it may take multiple tries and methods to remove all flies and even then, they are likely to reappear someday.

• Sticky tape. Place a double sided tape or one of those sticky traps designed for flies in the tank (out of the reach of any other tank inhabitants)

• Avoid too much moisture. Drying the tank out can be partially useful but you can’t really dry a tank completely out without harming your pedes. I’ve been keeping a tank as dry as I safely can and it slightly helps to reduce fly populations somewhat

• Vacuuming. Open the tank lid and disturb the top layer of soil lightly (I blow on it). Once the flies start trying to escape, vacuum them up. This prevents adults (which BTI can’t kill) from mating.

• Add natural predators. There are some mites and nematodes that eat fly larvae. I have heard that these can be purchased but I haven’t found a source myself yet, though they often appear in tanks on their own, since they tend to live in the same environments.

Avoid BTI

BTI is a bacteria cultivated and designed to target fungus gnat, fruit fly, and mosquito larvae (Diptera). It was thought that it could only affect Diptera but recent studies are finding that its use can have adverse effects on non-Diptera. See this article for more information https://www.frontiersin.org/journals/environmental-science/articles/10.3389/fenvs.2015.00071/full 

On parasites:

I have never seen a millipede with a parasite but there are multiple organisms which specialize in millipede consumption. Not much can be done for a millipede suffering from a parasitic invasion. There are a few creatures that specialize in the consumption of millipedes. These include:

• scuttle flies (lay eggs inside)

• Millipede assassin bugs (paralyze and inject enzymes)

• Glow worm beetles (paralyze and inject enzymes)

• Arthrophaga myriapodina fungus (like from Last of Us)  

Acquiring/purchasing your new friend:

Millipedes are typically an inexpensive pet. My recommendation is to look for your nearest reptile/bug expo and purchase directly. Shipping is usually ok but often leads to premature death because of shipping stress. Shipping cannot typically be done during extreme weather so timing should be considered.

Places to buy online:

The following are sites that I personally have had good luck with, meaning the millipedes came good conditions and the seller was fair and transparent.

Morphmarket:

• Morphmarket is a 3rd party site that gives sellers a platform to market. It can be the Wild West sometimes so it’s important to look into a seller before purchasing. I have had good experiences with Criminal Cresties.

Galapagos zoological supply:

• This seller has their own site but also sells on morphmarket. I got a few Smokey oaks, all came healthy and the seller was good with communication.

Important note on ethics:

As exotic pet owners, it’s important to know where your millipede comes from. My personal ethical recommendation is to ALWAYS avoid Wild Caught specimens. Wild caught means the animal was taken from its natural habitat and imported.

African Giant (archispirostreptus gigas) millipedes are a prime example of this issue. If you look at listings for this species, you’ll see many adults that measure up to 1’ in length. While this is very impressive and cool, purchasing these animals typically supports the destruction of their local populations. It also leaves you as a buyer at risk of getting a sick/near death millipede.

The US banned importation of this animal because of the potential agricultural threat its symbiotic mites pose. This has encouraged captive bred sellers to take over the demand for such large animals. These sellers typically sell juveniles for high prices ($100 [€85] give or take). This is a ludicrous price to foreigners who can buy this species at their local pet shop for $15 [€12](as was common in the US. until recently). It may seem unfair to Americans, but please know (regardless of your nationality) that purchasing full grown adults at a cheap price most likely means that you’re buying a stolen animal from a shady dealer. If a seller doesn’t want to disclose their millipedes husbandry and origin, they’re likely not a good seller.

Enclosure:

**It is essential that any material that you take from your tank must be disinfected and disposed of properly.**

This includes any substrate, decor, plants, even deceased inhabitants.

Freeze, bake, and seal in the trash. This prevents any nonnative beings or diseases from getting into your local environment. You never know what you’re cultivating in a bioactive tank.

Example enclosure:

Photo included is my own. This is a 20gH tank with various Narceus breeds.

Example enclosure details:

Substrate is 2 layered. The bottom 4” is a burrowing layer of Garden Magic Compost. (Checked thoroughly for plastic and other contaminants) The next 6” is a mix of that compost and +%50 decaying hardwood leaves and broken down rotting hardwood. I had to process a LOT of material from my local forest for this. In my last attempt, I did not disinfect as well and ended up with a lot of pests that were eating up the nutrients. Now I bake basically everything for 30 mins at 200° (watching carefully) and then freeze it for a while until I’m ready to use it.

Surface has even more leaves and wood. A piece of bark and a couple sticks act as climbing enrichment.

Plants include pothos, baby tears, creeping Jenny. In the future I would like to only include plants that are native to my millipedes natural environment.

“Hardscape” is just an old limb joint from a tree I ripped off and half buried into the substrate.

The compost holds water well, and the surface clutter locks in moisture so I only need to mist a handful of times a week, depending on the season. I have a 20g tank heating pad on the back wall above the substrate line. Temp stays around 74°F [23°C] in the summer (my house runs hot) 70°[20°C] in the winter.

I honestly don’t check surface humidity that often. This tank has a glass top with a 2”x4” ventilation screen over the “dry” side of the tank. Judging substrate moisture, plant indicators, and using past experience tells me when my humidity levels are appropriate.

I feed protein a couple times a week (freeze dried animal-safe meats like freeze dried chicken neck, fish flakes, Rapashy bug burger works as well). I only give fruits and veggies once a week or less to help deter pest booms like mites & fungus gnats.

**bear in mind that this tank is made for mainly Narceus americanus, Annularis, and Gordanus.**

Size:

General rule is something like 2x the millipede length across with at least 1 length of substrate. I personally don’t think that’s enough.

My recommendation:

10g

• for small to medium millipedes

(ex bumblebee-American giant)

• Possibly small colonies up (depending on breed size) [I have a 10g of polydesmus angustus millipedes that probably has nearly 100 babies)

20g+

• African Giant (large adults may need more space like a 40g)

• Large colonies (10-20 individuals depending on size)

40+

• African giant colony

• Diverse ecosystem terrariums. Some people want to represent a whole ecosystem in one place with many different organisms living together. In order to ensure each creature gets its required space and care, a large enclosure is recommended.

Front opening enclosures:

Front opening enclosures can be difficult to work with as they make it hard to have a high level of substrate. I recommend a tall top-opening glass tank with a tight lid.

Plastic totes and containers can be used for a cheap alternative if viewing isn’t as important to you. If viewing is important, I don’t recommend this because the opening of the enclosure can cause unnecessary stress.

• The enclosure must be able to be securely closed! If you experience issues with escapees, try a line of Vaseline or some petroleum jelly to keep them inside.

Gauges:

Since millipedes have species-dependent environmental requirements, temperature and humidity gauges are a must. I don’t think the kind with a soil probe is necessary?

For Purchase:

• Petco Temp/Humidity gauges

• ZooMed

Heat:

Many millipede species need to be kept at a temperature that is higher than the household average, depending on where you live. It is important to provide heat to the enclosure if your home’s ambient temperature is below the desired temp. Heating can be done in a variety of ways:

• Heat pad (adjustable recommended, must be above substrate line on a wall)

• BN-Link

• CHE (ceramic heat emitter, never tried this myself)

You may actually not need any supplemental heating if you live in a home that stays in the temperature range that suits your millipede.

Substrate:

This is the most important step in my opinion. Since a millipede's main diet is their substrate, great care should be put into what the substrate consists of. Total substrate depth should be AT LEAST as deep as the millipede is long. I recommend making the substrate as deep as possible while still leaving some climbing room above ground. More substrate is always better. (My substrate level averages 7” for adult narceus americanus)

Substrate layers:

Orin McMonigle recommends a 2 layer substrate system. The bottom layer consists of a few inches of organic compost (he sites Garden Magic Manure). The next layer should consist of a load of crushed & whole rotted hardwood leaves and wood like 3 inches worth. Remember that leaf:wood:soil ratio can depend on species.

This photo is of my 20g community Narceus tank. The top layer of 4-5” is purely broken down hardwood wood and leaves. The lower layer is mostly Garden Magic compost mixed with more food.

• Note: if your substrate visibly dries up in a few days, it is too dry

Millipede substrate recipes

**Avoid**

• coco coir (maybe causes impaction if consumed in large amounts. This is debated but it provides no nutrients so just isn’t a great option. Orin McMonigle points out that coir has been used in successful millipede keeping for decades and is only recently described as a hazard but this forum has evidence of otherwise])

• Artificial fertilizers

• Perlite (can contain fertilizers/pesticides)

• Regular potting soil (can contain fertilizers/pesticides + not best nutrients)

Purchasable substrate:

• Good for people who want the safety of low risk of specially developed substrate

• Costs more than making it yourself

• Finn’s Frogs

• Josh’s frogs

Makin it yourself (my personal mix):

• Topsoil/Garden Magic Compost 40% (sift for plastic bits)

• Hardwood leaf litter 20%

• Play Sand 10% (for structure and minerals, rinse well, not necessary)

• Rotting hardwood 20%

• Calcium 3%

• Sphagnum moss 2% (for moisture)

• **consider adding some horticulture charcoal (extracts toxins? And deodorizes)**

Wood pellets:

Hardwood pellets are made of compressed sawdust. This can be used mixed into substrate, but note that freshly expanded pellets have no nutritional value initially but over time with decomposition and fungus inoculation this can be a great food source. Some sources I’ve read suggest fermenting this for 6 months or more to break down the lignin structures and allow the animals to be able to consume the cellulose within.

Flake Soil:

Flake soil is a nutrient packed substrate that you can purchase or make. It consists of fermented wood/sawdust and additives.

Richard’s Inverts has a guide on making flake soil here.

Getting Supplies from Outside:

Essential nutrients like those from hardwood leaves and rotting wood can be gathered from outside (granted you live in an area with hardwoods).

• Avoid areas with pesticides (roadsides, residential, commercial)

• Try looking deep in the woods (if collecting plants/moss try to take little bits from many locations rather than all of it in one spot)

• Avoid softwoods (you can tell what’s hardwood by identifying the tree that the fallen branch/log/leaf it’s next too)

• Look for rotting hardwood logs with insect holes. An untouched log can indicate defect

Identification apps:

• iNaturalist

• PlantNet

Disinfecting (or not):

If you want to keep pests and infestations at bay there are many ways to reduce their presence. Some people say to not disinfect anything as it will take away beneficial bacteria. You must weigh the risks yourselves and make that decision.

Methods:

• Drowning (this is the least invasive but least effective method. Simply put gathered materials into a bucket and fill with water. This will drown out living organisms (not eggs) while retaining all nutrients and bacterias.)

• Boiling (Boil for 20-30 mins, this is good for making mulch out of wood chunks)

• Baking (Keep temperature no higher than 200° because leaves will easily ignite, 10-20 mins)

• Freezing (Freezing will help speed along the decay process, especially if some water is added)

Substrate change:

This may be necessary because of a variety of reasons. Eventually, all food will be consumed. You can add more on top of the substrate but once the tank is full, it will need to be refreshed.

This can be a very delicate process as you don’t want to damage any millipedes that may be burrowed in the soil. You may need to use a soft bush to move soil before removing it. It may take days to get it all out.

Don’t immediately throw away the used up substrate, there may be baby millipedes yet to hatch. Keep this substrate in a spare container and intermittently check for specimens. After a few months, freeze and dispose of the substrate.

Surface:

Millipedes are lowkey fragile, avoid having hard/heavy things like rocks, especially at the edge of tank. While trying to climb the sides of the tank, they often fall over and can hurt themselves.

Hardwood leaf litter is VERY important, it provides food and shelter. I always put it mixed in with the substrate but a few handfuls on top will do well.

Putting big bits of rotting hardwood on the surface can encourage you millipede to be more surface active as they will want to climb and eat it. Try to find a log/branch with some lichen/fungus on it from a hardwood tree that’s rotting (squishy/soft to touch. look for mycelium in the grain, usually looks like discoloration, typically white). They’ll love it!

Having a moisture gradient across the enclosure is good for health as they allow the millipede to be safe from drying out but allow reprieve from dampness to help avoid leg rot.

To achieve a moisture gradient, try to keep one side of the enclosure wetter than the other. Mist more often, add mosses and leaves.

Climbing is something many millipedes need to have access too. Try to include some flat surfaces, maybe on a wall. (people use cork sheets, tree bark, sticks, etc)

Artificial Decor:

Personally, I don’t include plastic decor for fear of chemicals leeching into the soil (unfounded fear, I don’t think that’s actually true in this case).

Orin McMonigle however says these decorations are totally ok including ceramic, glass, plastic, etc.

Water: 

Depending on where your tap water comes from, it may not be appropriate to use in a millipede enclosure. Hard water (evident from scale, residue buildup, egg smell) can be harmful. Distilled water or RO water is recommended. Boiled/filtered water can also work. I’ve heard of people using water conditioner (like for fish tanks) on their tap water.

A water dish is not necessary but they are very cute when they drink so a shallow dish is ok. Make sure the water is not deep enough for drowning, add stones or pebbles to the water to help. Otherwise, the millipede will get its water intake from plant matter, food, or by slurping it off the walls after misting.

• Orin McMonigle mentions that if your millipede runs to the water dish to drink every day, this is a sign that your substrate is too dry and your millipede is dehydrated.  

Plants:

Not much is documented on plants that are safe for millipedes. Plants that are considered non-toxic for other animals are probably fine. The following list are plants that thrive in my tanks.

• Various grasses can be grown from seeds (Timothy, ryegrass, wheatgrass)

• spider plants

• Mosses

• Ivys (pothos, string of frogs)

• Ferns (Dallas, birds nest, Christmas)

• Baby Tears

Mosses are especially important as they retain moisture and provide a place for millipedes to cool off/drink/root in. Makes for good enrichment.

Pro tip for moss:

Successfully transplanting moss into a tank sometimes has a high failure rate, depending on how you do it.

If you collect moss from outside, I have found that making a moss slurry and applying is more successful than just taking a chunk and throwing it in there. You can buy a moss slurry from some terrarium companies, or make it yourself.

To make a moss slurry:

• get moss, multiple kinds is better than just 1

• Rinse well to remove any hitchhikers

• Cut or blend into tiny pieces

• Mix with water, maybe 1:1? (I’ve heard of people using beer instead, idk about all that)

• Apply to multiple places in the tank

AVOID:

Fresh fir/pine. This can be harmful to some millipedes, though this is debated and breeds like Narceus Americanus have been found around/consuming evergreen.

• If bought from a store, the plant should be quarantined for some months to let any potential pesticides wear away

Watering plants:

Watering can be tricky since you don’t want to  drown any tank inhabitants. Pour in distilled water when needed so long as the substrate is not already too saturated.  

I have found that I don’t really need to water the plants in my tanks, they do well on the ambient moisture and occasional good misting.

Mold:

Mold is common and to be expected, especially in new setups. Most mold is totally harmless to millipedes. Springtails are a necessity for this reason.

Springtails are your clean up crew. They will eat mold (or they compete with mold for the same food source, it’s debated), break down waste, and help keep the space fresh. Plus they’re super entertaining! I’ve watched them have epic microscopic battles.

Supplemental Food:

A millipede’s main diet should be decaying organic material, mostly consisting of hardwood leaves/wood. However, they can benefit from and enjoy supplemental foods like:

• Cucumber

• Banana

• Carrots

• Potato

• Persimmon

• Grapes

• Bug jelly

Proteins:

• Betta fish flakes

• “Rapashy Bug Burger”

• Many site dog kibble, I’m not sure as to which kind

Calcium:

• Crushed cuttle bone

• Crushed Eggs shells

• Calcium powder

Avoid:

• Citruses (oranges, lemons, limes, etc)

• Iceberg lettuces (no nutrition but water)

• Rotting foods or meat or moldy items

• Remove supplemental foods after a couple days to avoid mold and/or pest booms

Handling:

In my opinion, these pets are usually a “view-only” experience as they can be super sensitive and easy to maim with an accidental fall. You may want to handle your millipede though, so here’s how to do so safely:

• consider wearing gloves

Photo included is my own. This is my biggest man Homer eating a persimmon.

Millipedes will nibble/bite your skin. This can scare people and cause sudden flinching and unfortunately sometimes a dropped millipede. Gloves prevent this and protect the millipede from any possible oils/chemicals on your skin.

Without gloves:

Remember to wash your hands before AND after handling. I’ve been told to avoid soap before handling though, just hot hot water.

• Always keep the millipede above a soft surface, away from heights

Again, falls can be fatal and sad.

• Try to let the millipede crawl onto you rather than picking it up by the body

Picking up by pinching the body can cause the millipede to freak out and use its chemical defenses. If the millipede won’t crawl onto you and you need to handle it, try to scoop up the dirt under it instead.

Patience is key for handling your millipede safely! Check out this video on my page https://www.reddit.com/r/millipedes/s/ZdbrgotOZu.

Tank Mates:

You may want to house multiple creatures in one enclosure. Be sure to do research for each individual beforehand and ensure their environmental requirements match.

• springtails

• Other millipedes (with the same environmental requirements)

• Personally, I have had success keeping cave crickets and harvestmen with millipedes. Predatory behaviors can occur from both though so take that as you will.

• I’ve seen people keep snails or slugs with their millipedes, you may need to consider culling their clutches.

• Orin McMonigle actually says tank mates are fine and mentions

• hissing roaches

• crickets

• and other creatures that fit into the habitat requirements.

• Personally I would assume to ensure safety you would avoid non-diplopods but your setup could be different. Maybe you want a more realistic environment that includes predators. If you do this route, I would promote setting up a large tank in order to give every creature the space needed to thrive but stay balanced.

Avoid:

• Isopods (can eat molting millipedes) (Orin says slow breeding isopods are fine but really, just evaluate what’s important to you. If your want your one special millipede baby to be safe, don’t do isopods)

• Earthworms (eats all the soil nutrients)

• Centipedes (predators)

• Creatures that over breed (slugs, snails, etc, again this point is subjective as many keepers have slugs/snails with their millipedes with no problems)

Temperature and Humidity:

It’s important to note that not all millipedes have the same requirements. Make sure to research the care of the specific millipede you’re interested in.

Misting, (spraying substrate with water), should be done semi-often. Personally I base my misting schedule on humidity level and substrate moisture content. I live in the Midwest of America so I lost more in the winter than the summer. Some people do it everyday. So long as the tank isn’t drowning in water or super dry.

Ventilation: 

Substrate moisture content can depend on ventilation, Orin McMonigle has some suggestions for tank ventilation:

Plastic totes:

Probably don't need added ventilation with a loose lid but if lid is tight, add some vent holes with a drill or thumbtack (be sure the holes aren't big enough for escape).

Glass Terrarium:

With a glass lid, have an aprox. 6mm gap along one side.

With a mesh lid, I covered the majority of the mesh with a layer of plastic wrap.

To keep inevitable pests out like fungus gnats, consider getting some fine mesh to cover any ventilation holes.

Note taking:

Take notes!! You’ll want to know when you last saw someone or watered or fed. I have a table in my notes app that I copy and paste everyday and write down what I observed, what I did, and what my gauges read for temp and humidity. It is incredibly helpful to keep track of everything.

Resources:

Books:

Millipeds in Captivity: Diplopodan Husbandry and Reproductive Biology (Millipede Husbandry)

Milliped Zoology: Husbandry and Diversity of the Class Diplopoda

Online Resources:

Decent general guide

http://www.exoticpetvet.com/millipede-care.html#:~:text=For%20many%20North%20American%20species,%2D80%25%20(1)

Another general guide: has good info but I question the idea of having nutrient deficient substrate

https://petmillipede.weebly.com

ID guide for Midwest:

https://dam.assets.ohio.gov/image/upload/ohiodnr.gov/documents/wildlife/backyard-wildlife/Millipedes%20of%20Ohio%20Pub%205527.pdf

Derek Hennen:

https://www.derekhennen.com/millipede-centipede-identification

Checklist of North American Millipedes

https://archive.org/details/checklistofmilli00hoff

Phylogenetic systematics of the millipede family Xystodesmidae.

https://academic.oup.com/isd/article/5/2/1/6154022?login=false

German forum site

https://forum.diplopoda.de/forum/index.php?board/16-zucht-und-aufzucht/

Forum on this site ^ showing evidence for coir impaction

https://forum.diplopoda.de/forum/index.php?thread/5442-cocohum-schädlich-für-diplopoden/&postID=44958#post44958 

A previously unknown feeding mode in millipedes

https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC8849289/ 

Research showing evidence of potential harm towards arthropods from BTI

https://www.frontiersin.org/journals/environmental-science/articles/10.3389/fenvs.2015.00071/full